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New York Nick
12-11-2009, 12:19 PM
Hi, Monty hope is all well?
I was bored today and got the strobes out too test them out.
Anyway I wanted to know what chassis it is?
Thanks

tnttires
12-11-2009, 01:00 PM
It looks like a steel Koford Viper from around the mid 90's. That is the way Koford did the floating pin tubes on his assembled chassis.

Dave P
12-11-2009, 03:26 PM
Tony's on the money, I actually put a chassis wanted add in the classifieds on OWH for that exact chassis. It's 4.6 long and works great for the F2000 spray glue series.
Dave P

New York Nick
12-11-2009, 04:16 PM
So you could use it for 27 light?

New York Nick
12-11-2009, 04:27 PM
Dave, I can get M348B new is that the same one as above?

Ody
12-11-2009, 04:55 PM
M348B Chassis is the same as above

Dave P
12-11-2009, 09:09 PM
Nick,
Depends on where you use the chassis. If your running on a superspeedway, it would be a little slow. You would want to take a look at Kofords M610B G27 light chassis, it's 4.300 long. For an older "drivers" King, or any type drivers track, it's still a great chassis. I even used it at Chicagoland for a F2000 race, it was great, and loaned it to the " Gus & Ody " show for a F2000 race at Chicago and they loved it. Hi Monty, sorry for stepping all over your forum
Dave P

New York Nick
12-13-2009, 07:25 AM
OK is this the same one?

hesketh
12-13-2009, 08:23 AM
Nick , that Koford will work fine for 27L at most of the tracks we race on. You should make the rear mounts solid along the rear rails though. With a steel frame you can easily shorten up the car a little if you want by shortening up the motor box rails. But I wouldn't bother. The bodies people have been using include, Z28 Rib, Viper Rib and Phantom. For Slots a Lot I would try a Phantom. Also use 9/38 or 9/39 gearing.
Paul Kovich

New York Nick
12-13-2009, 06:21 PM
Paul
How would you cut that Phantom?
I am planing to race at the slots a lot on the 16th.
Thanks Paul see you than

Dave P
12-18-2009, 02:49 PM
Nick
The first chassis that you posted a picture of, the one with the integral guide tongue was identified as the M348B, that is incorrect. I still haven't found the Koford part # for it. The M348B is a steel chassis with a solder on guide tongue, more like the second chassis you posted a picture of. Still would like to find a part# for the Koford steel integral guide tongue chassis.
Dave P

12-19-2009, 11:15 AM
in MY forum? Well, since its here, you get my opinion too.

THE ONE WITH THE SOLDER ON TONGUE WORKS BETTER! Why do wing racers keep ignoring ride height like air cars can ignore the laws of physics? You still have the choice of regular guide or cutdown type. With the regular theres even room underneath for brass pans. If the track braid is deeply recessed, maybe a guide washer. Yes, you do need to mount the diaplane with enough height to miss the glue puddles. Better yet, adopt F2000 rules and don't worry about puddles...

hesketh
12-19-2009, 02:30 PM
Nick, because the chassis is on the long side you probably cant go real short on the body, mine are 138 to 140 long and 28 to 30 tall. Take 1/8 off the wing height if they are full height to begin with.

New York Nick
12-19-2009, 03:22 PM
Thanks Monty, Do you agree that it is a Koford?
Sorry about the High jack.

New York Nick
12-19-2009, 03:24 PM
Thanks Paul, will try it.

12-19-2009, 04:28 PM
Yes, Nick, I do believe the guys got the I.D.'s right after a few tries. Despite my admitted current scale car bias, I've run a few air cars in my time, including both of these. I even built rental fleets with them back when I worked at Uncle Kal's original underground - they held up pretty well. You might consider wrapping the gear side strut/mainrail junction, or even brazing it if you know how.

New York Nick
12-21-2009, 08:25 AM
I know you would know, Thanks again.
Marry Christmas and Happy New Year.