gear ratios

[dretceterini]

I agree! So now what are typical winds for 1/32nd?

Stu

[Prof Fate]

Whew! this is kinda wierd bouncing back and forth between threads so I can follow what we are talking about !

It sort of varies. Right now, motors on the market for 1/32 run from a high of 180/38 down to 60/30. Part of the problem is that the mass produced mabuchis tend to use just a couple wire sizes and hotter versions just have fewer turns on them. And some dont. Measuring the STACK(check ohms law), the motors on the market are typically this:

Ninco NC1: 10 ohm
Scaley, Fly, MRRC: 5 ohm
Carrera, Rabbit 3ohm
Slot it 2.25-2.2
Fox :2
Cheetah 1
Falcon .9

All are 130 size motors, basically a shorter version of the old Monogram X88 aka 13uo with a 13mm stack diameter and magnets in the 350-400 gauss range. Brushes are all cheap POS being brass strips under tension with a nubben of carbon on the end, just like the old stromie 15R. HOwever, the better magnets mean that the power levels are good AND being smalller and lighter can make a better handling car than our old 16d powered cars.
the 13u type is still around from the Spanish. Ninco makes cheapo version in their NC-2 and NC3s, essentially the same longer stack and can but with the crummy modern brushes. AND from SCX: motors where the brushes/endbell are excellent.
With cars I run a lot built with an S can, I put a proper endbell and brush set up on them Improves the motor wonderfully.
Did I answer the question?
Or am I babbling again?

Prof.Fate

[dretceterini]

yes but...are you saying that no one makes a decent S can or similar with a decent endbell and brush setup?

Stu

[dretceterini]

I tried skewed arms and 5 pole arms 30 years ago, as in theory they should be "smoother".

They didn't seem to do anything to me. Has anyone played with this idea in recent years?

Stu

[Prof Fate]

30 years ago stu? more like 37 years ago!
Skewing works in choo-choo applications allowing the motor to turn over at a very low voltage and run up smoothly. At high RPM it generates lots of parasite currents which equals HEAT. Also limits RPM. I thought it was interesting to play with when we were using Pittman 704s that only did 18,000 rpm, but faster than that....
As for the S cans. yes they are alll trash. Some of these are used by an unnamed conglomerate to run the mirrors on your doors, they buy 9million a year at about 50 cents apiece. In the hobbyshops where they sell custom car junk, you can buy them for the application of doing Hopping low riders but about a buck and a quarter a piece.
Think about what that means given inflation since 1966!
On the other hand. Back about 73, some of us were playing with building motors out of "p" cans. These were the FK130uos, aka Revell SP40, Mono X88, "slimline" motors. Simply, the gutted can got cobalts, ball bearings and an endbell turned down from a Mura C can with a 23 single Mura medium stack. Monster pro motor that suffered from the can being a flexi flyer. Anyway, if we had had the moder SCX interation as the starting point, the motors would have been WONDERFUL.

Prof.Fate

[dretceterini]

Fate:

well, I did "dable" a little from circa 1968 though the mid 70s...that's why I said 30 years and not 40..

So, will you build me motors with a PROPER brush/end bell arrangement and ball bearings...or at least do the can set up?

I can do the winding and "really" big O or someone can epoxy (is epoxy still used?)balance them. But I haven't wound a motor in at least 25 years..

Stu

[dretceterini]

so where can you find a bunch of them CHEAP...even if the arms are dead?

I can always rewind them and use a modern commutator and magnets...ESPECIALLY ones with ball bearings stuffed in the can and end bell...and years ago, didn't someone make a bolt-on end bell for these that used Pittman 196 style motor brushs? And where can one find Pittman motor bruses anyway??

Stu

[Prof Fate]

Modern P cans are available from Spain by SCX.
Check Rad Trax. Their website gives my computer fits and takes forever to load, but they are my "local" hobby shop. They dont list what they dont have, the ship so quickly that it seems like I just filled the order and get the stuff.

The RX 41 motor has a mild 7 ohm wind. The RX 10 has a 3 ohm and is about as much as I run on most scale cars on home tracks. Commutator sucks, but a little epoxy and thread...the old 68 era fix, works wonders.

Pittman brushes...I havent seen any in long time. I DO see Stromie Scuttler brushes show up on the collector market. And That is what I use. The replacement endbell that used them on a can was by Simco. Had/have these, they were just ordinary Nylon. They let more air through the system and were a tad better than the stock endbells. Modern endbells dont really melt vary easily and are much better.
I am not sure what sort of Wind you are interested in, but BEFORE that, well there are a lot of other things you need to know.

Fate

[dretceterini]

I'm just getting back, and you never left, so I have a LOT to learn about modern stuff


Stu