1) Looking for good pinion: 7 tooth x 48p 2) angled pinion for a crown gear?

[aquavelvis]

SORRY FOR DOUBLING UP--Rookie mistake. Please IGNORE this one!! Thanks
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Can anyone recommend a good one that will mesh well? I've heard their small size makes mesh hard to impossible to get right. I'll be using it with Parma inline crown gear.

Also, would angled pinions matewell with crown gears? Seems they would since the smaller end of the angled pnioin would contact the narrower end of the pie-shaped gaps inthe crown. Or am I full of baloney?

Thanks

[wjdougherty]

Any quality angled pinion will work; I use GT1. Meshes great with Parma crown gears. This is the hot lick setup almost all retro racers use. If it didn't work the best no one would use it....


wjd

[Noose]

Here is a little tutorial I wrote on this subject. Hope it helps. Most Retro Racers use the ARP or GT1 angled 48P pinions in anywhere from 6 to 10 teeth. (The 6 just came out by ARP)

I posted this in another thread and thought it might be good to create a separate thread / post for it. It works for me and it sure does help prevent motor and bushing burn-outs! I have never lost a gear and always have smooth gear meshes with both hypoid and non-hypoid set-ups. Showing how to do it is good and maybe we can do a little video on YouTubula or something.

Note: This applies to the most commonly used Parma crown gears which are plastic. It won't hold true for metal gears.

1. Make sure the axle spins completely free in the bushings or bearings.

2. I make sure the fat end of the angled pinion is towards the motor and the tapered end is toward the crown gear. The teeth of the crown should touch the pinion just ahead of the rear of the pinion (the fat part) . Some like it in the front but I have seen more guys blow gears that way.

3. Set the crown against the pinion and lightly lock the set screw.

4. Turn the axle to see if there is some play all around. Almost all of the Parma crown gears are a bit out of perfect roundness. You need to find the high spot and that is the spot you want to make sure is set with the right amount of play.

5. The crown should just move slightly in this spot. If not, use your hand to turn the crown away from the pinion a bit and check again until you feel you have it right.

6. Lock the crown down and check the play all around again.

7. With a power pack hooked up, turn up the power until the motor starts to turn over slowly. Take a lighter and put the flame along the teeth and pinion for a short period of time. You can literally hear the the sound get quieter.

Do not overheat of course or you are going to melt the gear.

Works every time for me.

Also, I keep my gears separate. Gears used in hypoid position with Pro Slots or Falcons are kept separate from those aren't and separate from those used on TSRs, which turn the opposite way.

Added note: This is all meaningless if your chassis is weak in the back and you slam into someone/something or visa versa. Minimizing the chance of a bent bracket will always ensure the gear mesh stays good.

And of course it is all meaningless if you are using Sonics or some other form of metal gear

[aquavelvis]

Joe, wjd:

Many thanks for quick responses and great info!

Scott

[Phil I.]

Here is a little tutorial I wrote on this subject. Hope it helps. Most Retro Racers use the ARP or GT1 angled 48P pinions in anywhere from 6 to 10 teeth. (The 6 just came out by ARP)

Note: This applies to the most commonly used Parma crown gears which are plastic. It won't hold true for metal gears.

7. With a power pack hooked up, turn up the power until the motor starts to turn over slowly. Take a lighter and put the flame along the teeth and pinion for a short period of time. You can literally hear the the sound get quieter.
Do not overheat of course or you are going to melt the gear.

Works every time for me.

Also, I keep my gears separate. Gears used in hypoid position with Pro Slots or Falcons are kept separate from those aren't and separate from those used on TSRs, which turn the opposite way.

Added note: This is all meaningless if your chassis is weak in the back and you slam into someone/something or visa versa. Minimizing the chance of a bent bracket will always ensure the gear mesh stays good.

And of course it is all meaningless if you are using Sonics or some other form of metal gear

AAAuuuu Noose..I was goin fer da torch.....Poped my bubble...

I keep a plastic bagie from the gears and sometimes in a hurry use it to space the WOBBLEY crown gear.....If you look at a crown gear. You will notice the outside of the gear tooth has a lot wider opening than the inside. The pinion fat end fits the crown much better there... You will have to shorten Sonics or they will hit the set screw.....

OLPHRT
PHIL I.