.560 s16d gearing

[balln68]

Hello Monty i just built my first motor in 11 years ive been out of the sport, i built a s16d with a proslot 700b .560 amr with 45 degree timing, i saw the gear ratio chart on ur site and i thought the 10-37 3.70 ratio looked good, im running on a standard hillclimb track, from what i have read about the big arm is that it has more torque than the small arms so i figured the motor could push the car thru the turns and still give me the top end for the straight aways. i got out of the sport shortly after the american arms came into the sport, would any of my old chineese arms still be competitive if i had then cut and rebalanced, or would that be a waste of money, i also have a bunch of super wasp motors and x12 motors in my box that i spent good money on at one time, if i send them off to you and have them cleaned up would they still be competitive.

while using my can straightener i split the can i used a pair of vice grips to bring it back straight and soldered it back together, does this happen to you also it was quite a pain in the butt, i got .78ish clearnace once i put it back together but im not 100% that the can was square but it had the clearnace for the arm and the arm spun smooth and free, is it just going to take some time to get use to the can stariaghtner or is this how its going to be most of the time.

Thanks for your time
Brandon

[balln68]

Monty i got the 3.70 ratio azz backwards i was thinking that would give me more top end but it will give me more bottom end power and with a high torque arm i dont want the bottom end power im looking for the top end pull for the starights, an with the torque from the arm it should still pull off the turns, so im looking at the 10-35 or 36 now, thanks Brandon.

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Brandon,

Motors do not have endless torque. Any 'bogging' slows you down both ends of the scale. If that motor were a 16D, the 3.5-3.7 area is a good place to start. Since it is a SUPER 16D, which has fewer turns of thicker wire on a shorter lamination stack, it naturally revs much higher, and needs to, to be in a good power band. Try 9/37 or 38. It would also help to describe the track and its power arrangements.

Splitting the can is unfortunate, but sure, you can fix it. For the FX setup, it may interest you to know that I DON'T try to straighten them - they're very good as they come. Just solder the bushing or bearing in place, and use a .575" slug to keep the airgap up near .575" - .580". File or grind just a bit off the magnet retainer tabs to avoid rubbing on the large arm. For most arms, setting the magnets a bit in front of the rear tabs makes for easier spacing. You may have to remove the little 'buttons' on the endbell plastic to accomplish that.

I never use the Kelly 'D2' thin can. I'm not fond of flimsy and crooked. Those magnets also vary too much in SIZE, never mind strength.

Most of your older stuff is just that, older. If you were talking just a few years, I'd say sure, give 'em a try, but over a decade? Probably not competitive. As for the Chinese arms, there are plenty of races around where they are mandated, but no, they don't compete well with domestic armatures of the same class.

Enjoy the racing... it sounds like you are willing to go through the process to learn the lore.

[balln68]

Thanks for the advice Monty, the track is a 150ft hillclimb with batteries and a power supply putting out 13.8 volts, i'll get a new can and brushes and start over.

[balln68]

Hey Monty how do i use the .575 slug to check the air gap, i tried putting a .578 slug in today in my new fx can and it was too tight, i checked the clearance with my dial gauge and it shows .571 clearance. do i just force the slug in which doesnt sound right. Ive read some old posted and they say its not good to cut/sand the magenets, im not trying to be a pain in the butt. you dont happen to sell a how to build a slot car motor like the pro's book do you? that shows you how the tools work and how to properly use them , i was taught main years ago how to setup a new flexi chassis by Gary King, because of people like yourself that teach people i feel it helps keep the sport alive, i was 16 when my local track closed so i got out of the sport, after much drinking thru my 20's a refresher course helps out greatly, i now have to drive an hour and a half to race again, so this forum has shed lots of light on how things work, now that my life story is over thanks for your time and all your help.
Brandon

[balln68]

Monty could i use a sanding wheel to sand the outside finnish of the inside of the can to give me alittle more room, the only draw back to that sanding wouldnt be perfect but im sure the it wouldnt be off that much? am i going to far into left field now?